Not Only For the Thin – Designer Skinny Jeans Are Made For Every Body Type

It is official. The 80’s have made a comeback. Several seasons ago, skinny jeans took the world by storm and now, it looks like they’re here to stay. So are they really just for skinny people? Absolutely not. Designer skinny jeans are made for every body and by following a few simple guidelines, this look can be flattering on any body type. Here are a few things to keep in mind.

There are basically 3 types of skinny jeans:

  • Cigarette -This style is very similar to skinny jeans. The only difference is leg opening. The leg opening on skinny jeans gets smaller as it nears the ankle, whereas the leg opening on cigarette jeans stay the same from the knee down all the way to the ankle.
  • Straight leg – This classic cut is the most universally flattering style. There is usually no stretch to a straight leg jean, so it is less form fitting than the skinny and cigarette styles. This cut is slightly different from the cigarette jean. The leg opening on this jean stays the same from the thighs down.
  • Skinny – The 3 constituents that make up this style are form fitting, stretchy and ankle hugging. This style delivers the ultimate sprayed on look.

How To Wear Designer Skinny Jeans If…

  • You have large calves – Consider wearing cigarette jeans instead of skinnies. They are wider through the lower leg, which leaves room for your calves. You can additionally hide thick calves by wearing them tucked into boots.
  • You have a belly bulge – Any 3 of the skinny jean styles will work for anyone with tummy issues. Choose a pair that has a fair amount of stretch and a higher rise so they can really hold in your problem area. Pair this with a loose empire waist top and wear heels to elongate your legs and appear slimmer.
  • You have a big butt – Follow the same advice as for tummy issues. There are 2 things you need to keep in mind. One is to make sure the pockets on your jeans are low. They should end somewhere in the area where your butt and thighs meet to create a smaller looking behind. The other thing is your shirt needs to fall to the middle of your butt or longer.
  • You are tall and slim – Specialty cuts are often made in only one length, so it may be challenging for you to find skinny jeans that are long enough. When choosing the right pair of jeans for your body type, make sure they fall at least to your ankle. If they are too short, you can wear boots over them or wear heels with an ankle strap so that it looks intentional.
  • You are short and petite – Your problem is quite similar to those who are tall, since most jeans only come in one length. The upside is you can always get them hemmed. The downside is you’ll lose some of the skinniness at the ankle of you cut off too much. To avoid this issue, it is best to stick to cigarette jeans.

Designer skinny jeans are not reserved only for the runway and tall, gazelle looking super models. When you find a pair that fits and compliments your figure, you can look just as chic and stylish!

Machine Embroidery on Jackets

Of all the different wearable items that can be embroidered, jackets would appear to be the easiest. When most of think of jackets in terms of embroidery, large areas for full back and left chest designs come to mind. What many of us often forget are the little curveballs apparel manufacturers are adding into their designs such as box pleats and seams down the back. Fashion forward styles may have things like raglan sleeves which can throw off design placement since they lack the guideline of a shoulder seam.

One sure way to begin with a jacket that is fit for embroidery is to focus on working with styles that give the fewest headaches. Therefore, do some research on the newest trends. In addition, start with a machine that is in top notch condition, with fresh needles and bobbins. Below are the other basic elements to consider in your quest for trouble-free jacket embroidery.

Choosing a hoop

The best choice in hoops for jackets is the double-high hoop. This hoop is taller than the average hoop so offers more holding power. You can wrap your hoop with white floral tape, medical gauze, twill tape or bias tape to prevent hoop marks and help give a snug fit. Tissue paper, backing or waxed paper can also be used. Hoop these materials on top of the jacket, then cut a window for the embroidery. A thin layer of foam under the tape can also help. But avoid masking tape as it tends to be sticky and leaves a residue on jacket and hoop. When choosing your hoops, remember that oval hoops hold better all the way around than do square hoops with oval corners. The “square oval” holds better in the corners than on the sides, top and bottom.

Needles

The size and type of needle will depend on the fabric of the jacket. Leather jackets call for an 80/12 sharp. (Wedge shaped “leather” needles tend to do more harm than good.) Use this same sharp needle on poplin and other cotton-type jackets. Use a 70/10 or 80/12 light ballpoint on nylon windbreakers and a 75/11 fine ballpoint on satins and oxford nylons to avoid runs in the fabric. Heavy wool jackets, canvas and denim jackets require a stronger sharp needle. Corduroy stitches well with either ballpoint or sharp. Remember that ballpoint needles nudge the fabric out of the way in order to place the stitch, while sharps cut through the fabric. A good rule of thumb is to use the same size needle to embroider as you would to sew the seams of the jacket in assembly.

As for thread, polyester is a good choice for embroidery on jackets that will be exposed to the weather and coastal climates. Be sure to include washing and dry cleaning instructions with your finished product. Consider choosing a large-eye needle when working with metallic and other heavy specialty threads

Placing the design

Hold a straight-edge across the jacket back from side seam to side seam at the bottom of the sleeves. Mark a horizontal straight line, then double check this with a measurement from the bottom of the jacket to the same line. Jackets are not always sewn together straight. Measure the straight line and divide in half to find the center of the jacket. Place a vertical line through the horizontal line at this point. The intersection of the two lines will be the center. If you are rotating the design to sew upside-down or sideways, take this into consideration when measuring and later when hooping. Use tailor’s chalk, disappearing ink pens or soap to mark your garments. Avoid using pins. Masking tape is available in thin strips at graphic and art stores. It is easy to remove and leaves no marks. Wider masking tape, though, can leave residue.

Centering the design eight inches down from the back of the collar is a good place to start, and should work with most jackets. Small sizes may do better at six inches; very large ones may end up at 10 inches. The top of the design should fall about 2 ½ inches down from the collar of the jacket. But remember that this will change if the jacket has a hood. Then it will be necessary to place the design below the hood.

The best way to determine the center point of the design is to have someone try the jacket on, or invest in a mannequin. Pin an outline of the design or a sew-out to the back, making sure to include lettering and graphics to determine size and placement. Left or right chest designs should be centered three to four inches from the edge of the jacket and six to eight down from where the collar and the jacket body intersect. When embroidering on jackets with snaps or buttons, use the second snap or button as a guide.

Be careful not to place the design too close to the sleeve side of the jacket. Designs are not to be centered on the left chest. The correct placement is closer to the placket than to the sleeve. The center of a sleeve design should fall three to four inches below the shoulder seam of the sleeve. When placing a design on the sleeve of a raglan style jacket, mark the placement using a live model or a mannequin.
Backings

The complexity of a design will often be the major factor when choosing a backing for embroidery. Stitch intensive designs may need the extra stability backing provides. Even jackets made of fabrics such as poplin and satin (that might not otherwise cry out for a backing) can benefit from its use, especially if the design is complex. Consider attaching the backing to the jacket with spray adhesive before hooping to increase stability. Attaching a piece of light cut-away backing-or even rear-away-to a satin jacket can hold the jacket better while stitching, allowing for good registration in your design. And, if you should need to remove stitching, the presence of a backing can make your job easier and safer. Backing can also prevent residue from coated canvas fabrics from raining down into the bobbin housing.

Most jacket materials do not require topping. The exception to this might be the corduroy or fleece jacket where the use of a topping can tame the fluff of the fleece and prevent stitches from falling into the valleys of the corduroy. The use of underlay does a better job than topping for challenging fabrics-and as an added benefit, it does not wash away.

Hooping technique

When hooping, especially large or bulky items, start from the “fixed” side of the thumbscrew and travel around the hoop to the “free end.” Use the heels of your hands to alleviate stress on your fingers and wrists. When hooping flat on a table, make sure that there is nothing between the hoop and the table. If any adjustment is needed, hold as much of the upper hoop in place as you can while adjusting. This prevents the garment from popping out of the hoop.

Always make sure the jacket lining is smooth, and double check to determine that the outer shell and the lining are even. Turning the sleeves inside out can help with hooping a lined jacket.

Hooping too loosely can cause puckering, too tightly can cause fabric burn. It can also stretch the fabric causing it to “spring back” when unhooped, meaning more puckering. Tips to prevent puckering include lightening the tension upper and lower, using tear-away if lettering is fill, using mid-weight cutaway if lettering or design is satin stitch. Adjust the hoops before hooping the garment and do not pull or stretch the fabric after it is hooped. Puckering is a risk when stitching on satin, and the lighter the weight of the satin, the more the danger of puckers. You will have the best results when the hold is firm. If you can move the satin around in the hoop, it will move while stitching.

A light pressing or steaming of the area to be embroidered can improve results and ensure that lining and jacket are lined up correctly. While you are checking to make sure your bobbins are full, it is a good idea to check that no part of the jacket is doubled up under the hoop. And please make sure you are not sewing pockets shut, especially inner ones.

Hooping the jacket upside-down and reversing the design is a good way to keep the bulk of the jacket away from the needles. Make sure the arms of the jacket are out of the way of any stitching before you begin. Use clothespins, bulldog clips, quilting clips or even large hair clips. Make sure that you support the weight of the jacket during embroidery to prevent the fabric from slipping out of the hoop, and to help ensure good registration. Embroidering jackets on the tabletop instead of in the tubular mode can help prevent the weight of the jacket from hampering the job. Check also to make sure the material is flat against the throat plate. If you can push down the fabric, the presser foot will too, and this can cause flagging. Flagging can cause stitching problems and poor registration.

4 Sure Ways to Grab a Vintage Mini Dress of Your Choice at Less Than $70

Usually, a vintage mini dress is a valuable piece. It reminds you of the trend during that era. Moreover, there are only few designs of them left today, so buying one could mean that there’s no other woman who gets to wear the same dress. However, because it’s rare, most of the dresses are expensive. They could be more than $50. Others may even be worth hundreds or even thousands.

If you’re desperate to own a piece of history by getting yourself a vintage mini dress, then you should listen to these tips:

1. Rummage through the old closet of your mom. Moms are very sentimental people. They have treasures that could be hidden inside chests, drawers, and old cabinets. Some of these items could be the vintage mini dresses that she used to wear when she was still young. You can ask permission to check out some few pieces and see if you are going to like them.

Because they’re already old, you may have to spend for minor repairs or even alterations. Nevertheless, the modifications will not be really too expensive compared to purchasing one in stores.

2. Know if there are garage sales. This is also another good place to scour for a vintage mini dress. Most of the home owners who hold garage sales are willing to dispose the old items they have to give the house more room for new ones. Furthermore, the previous owner of the dresses may feel that vintage dresses are already pass and would decide to offer them to you at a bargain price. Thus, you can save money with your purchase. What’s more, you can also haggle and ask for discounts. A lot of them would also agree on your terms.

3. Discover a hole-in-the-wall antique shop. A “hole in the wall” is any establishment that is out of the way. The place is usually obscure and thus difficult to find. To make sure that they can get sales from their visitors, which may seldom come, they are willing to drop their prices and offer you with discounts as much as 50 percent off the original cost of the product. You can get tips from friends who could also be into vintage mini dresses.

4. Buy it from eBay. There could be thousands of online stores out there, but eBay still remains to be a place to be if you’re searching for the best deals on any kind of item. Some of the members are currently selling vintage mini dresses, and you can bid on these items until the dresses will be awarded to you. If you don’t want to go through the whole bidding process, which may last for weeks, you can choose to look for vintage dresses that are labeled as “Buy It Now.”

Owning a vintage mini dress doesn’t only make you look cool, but it also makes you very unique. So go on, look for the one that speaks of your style and personality. After all, you know where to find them.